Alfama (CLOSED 8/09)

I've sorely missed O Padeiro, the Portuguese bakery formerly in Chelsea. Therefore, it was a comfort to discover Alfama, where I drowned my nostalgia in vinho verde. My favorite items at O Padeiro were the pasteis de nata (small round custard tarts with incredibly flaky crusts). Alfama sells them by the dozen and includes a few for free with the check!

Wednesday nights at Alfama are fado nights, so make a reservation to hear the traditional music of Portugal. Women draped in black sing passionately while the homesick Portuguese at the bar hum along to the beloved melodies.

The highlights of my meal were the cheese plate and the dessert (I couldn't quite adjust to the extreme saltiness of the bacalhau in my main course). My cheese choices included the evora (a hard cheese reminiscent of Manchego), a spicy paprika-dusted Toledo, and a creamy soft-ripened Serpa. Next time I will try the peppercorn-encrusted Ribafria and the Serra, one of Portugal's most famous cheeses.

Whenever I spy the word "trio" in a selection on the dessert menu, I always order that item in hopes that it will provide three times the pleasure of an ordinary dessert. The doces conventuais was comprised of three traditional Portuguese egg-based desserts: fio de ovos, or sweet angel hair; abade de priscos (rich dense egg-yolk flan) and the transcendent toucinho do ceu, a delicious egg cake made with Algarvean almonds.

I finished things off with a bica (espresso) and staggered off into the night.

Alfama: 551 Hudson St., (212) 645-2500.